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An Armchair Traveller's History of Apulia

An Armchair Traveller's History of Apulia

An Armchair Traveller's History of Apulia is the story of the heel of Italy - Puglia - as told by past and present day travellers. It has beautiful landscapes, cave towns and frescoed grotto churches, wonderful old cities with Romanesque cathedrals, Gothic castles and a wealth of Baroque architecture. And yet, while far from inaccessible, until quite recently it was seldom visited by tourists. This portrait of Apulia concentrates on the Apulian people down the ages. Conquerors, whether Messapians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Lombards, Byzantines, Normans, Angevins, Germans or Spaniards, have all left their mark on the region in a cultural palimpsest that at first sight bewilders, but which hugely repays investigation. Arranged in short chapters, the narrative travels from north to south, making it an ideal companion for exploring Apulia by car. The Gazetteer, which is cross-referenced to the main text, highlights cities, churches, cathedrals, castles and sites of historical importance to the visitor. For travellers on the ground or students at their desks, this elegant, cloth-bound book will prove invaluable.

Foreword: Old Apulia

Chapter 1. Introduction

Part I: The Gargano

Chapter 2. The Gargano

Chapter 3. Monte Sant’ Angelo

Chapter 4. The Norman Conquest – of Apulia

Chapter 5. San Giovanni di Rotondo and Padre Pio

Chapter 6. The Gargano Coast and the Tremiti

Chapter 7. The Heretic from Ischitella

Part II: Hohenstaufen Country

Chapter 8. “The Wonder of the World”

Chapter 9. Castel del Monte

Chapter 10. The Emperor’s Faithful Andria

Chapter 11. The Land of Manfred

Part III: The Tavoliere

Chapter 12. Foggia and the Tavoliere

Chapter 13. The Tavoliere: Lucera, Troia and Cerignola

Chapter 14. Life on the Old Tavoliere

Chapter 15. Latifondismo

Part IV: The Adriatic Shore

Chapter 16. Cathedral Cities on the Coast

Chapter 17. King Ferrante’s Coronation at Barletta, 1459

Chapter 18. Trani

Part V: Bari

Chapter 19. The Catapans

Chapter 20. Old Bari

Chapter 21. Bari, 1647 – Revolution

Chapter 22. New Bari

Part VI: The Murge

Chapter 23. The Murge

Chapter 24. Cities of the Murge

Chapter 25. The Battle of Cannae, 216 BC

Chapter 26. Maundy Thursday at Noicattaro

Chapter 27. The Masserie

Chapter 28. The Via Appia

Chapter 29. Horace, the Apulian

Chapter 30. Life at Altamura

Part VII: The Cave Dwellers

Chapter 31. The Cave Dwellers

Chapter 32. Gravina-in-Puglia

Chapter 33. Matera

Part VIII: Trulli and the Difesa di Malta

Chapter 34. Trulli

Chapter 35. The Difesa di Malta

Chapter 36. The Duel at Ostuni

Chapter 37. Brigands

Part IX: Tàranto and Brìndisi

Chapter 38. Classical Tàranto

Chapter 39. Two Men from Taras

Chapter 40. The Princes of Tàranto

Chapter 41. The Travellers’ Tàranto

Chapter 42. Brìndisi

Part X: Lecce and the Baroque

Chapter 43. Lecce

Chapter 44. Don Cirò, the Bandit Priest

Chapter 45. Baroque in the Salento

Chapter 46. A Band of Brigands – the Vardarelli

Chapter 47. Tarantismo

Part XI: Greek Apulia

Chapter 48. The Byzantine Terra d’Òtranto

Chapter 49. The Castle of Otranto

Chapter 50. Manduria

Part XII: Three Little Courts

Chapter 51. Conversano

Chapter 52. Martina Franca

Chapter 53. Francavilla Fontana

Part XIII: Risorgimento?

Chapter 54. The Death of the Regno

Chapter 55. The Brigands’ War

Chapter 56. “A War of Extermination”

Part XIV: Epilogue

Epilogue: Apulia Today

Further Reading

Short Chronology

Historical Gazetteer